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Ryan Hoss: Segmented Turning

Our January 2004 meeting started out with a discussion of the tools we will be making for Toolday 2004.  Click here for more info on Toolday 2004.

We'd like to give a special thanks to Ryan Hoss.  Ryan gave our demonstration on Segmented Turning at our January 6th meeting.  (My apologies on the photo quality of some of the images, I just got a new digital camera, and am still learing the correct settings for taking photos indoors without the use of a flash!)

 

 


There are several web sites that Ryan frequents where he has learned what he needs to do segmented turning.  Those links can be found further down this page.

Ryan created a lidded box, but wasn't happy with the way it looked.  So, he decided that the top and bottom should each become it's own vessel.

Here is one of the vessels that he has assembled and turned.  It is a combination of Maple and Purpleheart wood.  It has over 300 pieces in it!

Here Ryan discusses fitting the assembled rings together prior to glueing.  He staggers the joints between rings.  This is one of his secrets that allow you to hide any imperfections in size of the pieces in the rings.

Ryan glues on a plywood foot for attaching the piece to the faceplate of his lathe.  When he wants to remove the foot, he attached a rounded dome (turned of scrap wood) to his faceplate and covers this with a foam pad.  Then he sandwiches the foam pad between the dome and the inside of his completed segmented vessel.  The tailstock is then brought up to the center of the foot, and the piece is held between the tailstock and the faceplate.  Then he turns off as much of the plywood foot as possible before stopping the lathe and then using a handsaw or chisel, removes most of the remaining plywood.  The bottom of the vessel is then sanded smooth.

 

Here is some of the info that Ryan distributed during the meeting

Segmented bowl websites
http://www.swcp.com/~rgbrown/
http://www.woodturns.com/articles/design/kevin_neelley/no_math_segment .htm
http://www.turnedwood.com/ best site to begin the process
http://www.woodturnersresource.com/Gallery/segmented
http://www.beaverpondstudio.com/
http://www.kestrelcreek.com/exhibits/list.php?exhibition=7
http://www.outofcontrol-woodturning.com/
http://www.woodturnerruss.com/GalleryOfTheArtistic.html

Supplies:

  • Gorilla Glue (glue joints don't expand with humidity changes like carpenters glue does)
  • Disposable gloves – Gorilla Glue  leaves fingers black and nothing seems toclean it up.  Use popsicle sticks or something similar to spread glue
  • Rubber bands - www.quill.com online office supplies 5/8" x 7" - 52 per pound box
  • Plywood circles for faceplate, various diameters
  • Super glue and accelerator – to glue small shims to hold rings in place until glue sets
  • Melamine work area, finish nails, small squares of poly for glued pieces Wood, any kind, any color, should be dry to prevent shrinkage.
  • Woodturning fabric backed tape – Woodcraft supplies in Minneapolis 1" or 2"  (excellent)

Geometry refresher (as fresh as I can remember anyway)

  • Circle = 360 degrees
  • 10 segments per bowl / 360degrees = 36 degrees each piece
  • The two faces of each segment have to add up to 36 degrees
  • Therefore each side has to be 18 degrees for all ten segments to
    add up to  360 degrees

Tips:

  • Rough cut segments as close as possible and sand to achieve the best joint.
  • Stationary disc sander works well, can make one out of melamine and a faceplate
  • It is easier to work if the grain orientation is all the same direction.
    Sand down corners before turning to prevent tear out as the bowl turns.
  • Melamine works well for a work surface, you can clean it up when the glue is dry.
  • Be neat, the glue is very sticky and slippery, and doesn't clean up until dry.
  • Wet surfaces of hardwood before gluing for the strongest joint as per instructions.
  • Use small shims to hold rings in place when applying pressure for the glue to dry.
  • Dry fit all segments before gluing, use plenty of rubber bands, saves headaches later.
  • Each ring tends to be about ½" wider than the last to allow curves in the wall of the bowl
  • 1 to 1 ½" width of segments seems to be a good place to start.
  • Make a story board for different diameters of rings, (I set my math skills down someplace and darned if I can remember where I put them!)
     

Once again, I'd like to give a special thanks to Ryan for giving us a great presentation on Segmented Turning!

Page created on January 13th, 2004

Updated - September 12th, 2004

web page designed by: Jim McTavish
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